Inside India’s race for the GI tag

Krishan Kumar’s day starts early. At 5 a.m., the block printer from Kaladera in Rajasthan is up washing yards of cotton fabric to remove impurities. He then mixes dabu, a paste made from black clay, lime and acacia gum, to use in the ancient mud-resist printing technique that five generations of his family have been following.

As the sun moves across the sky, he sets up his printing table and proceeds to dip hand-carved wooden blocks featuring local flora and fauna into the paste to print patterns on the cloth. Hours later, after a quick stop for lunch, he dyes the fabric in large vats; the natural dyes used include the popular indigo with its deep blue colour. Depending on the complexity of the print, he goes over it several times with paste and dye.

It is a laborious process, — “the cloth passes through my hand at least 25 times before it’s completed,” he says — but Kumar believes its cultural heritage and eco-friendly nature make it worth the effort. However, after days of back-breaking work, when he takes his fabric to Jaipur, over an hour away, many customers bypass his craft, which starts from ₹250 a metre, for bolts of machine-printed fabric that go as low as ₹80 per metre.

So, I understand Kumar’s frustration when he tells me in Hindi: “If artisans have to uphold their identity in the market, we need GI [Geographical Indication]. It benefits them and the communities who do genuine work.”

Kumar first came across the concept of GI and crafts IP (intellectual property) in 2021, when Swedish fashion brand H&M’s collaboration with Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee had featured digitised versions of GI-tagged Sanganeri block prints, with its delicate vines and paisley motifs.

News about the collab gave truth to his biggest worry: the impact of factory-made products on manpower-intensive crafts. “If machine-made prints mimic handblock prints, it affects artisans like us. Machines can do large-scale production and big brands also charge customers a lot more. Artisans can neither produce so much nor charge a lot,” he states, explaining how an artisan can produce only 50 metres a day as compared to a machine that can produce 5,000.

The Prada effect in India

GI is defined as a tag attributed to goods produced within a specific geographical area and which possess characteristics or reputation tied to that region. It not only protects the authenticity of products, but also gives its producers economic advantages and (for artisans) a means to push back against counterfeiting and machine-made goods camouflaging as handmade crafts.

Kumar has spent the past few months as a participant in Creative Dignity’s IP Group, a collaborative network of stakeholders from the Indian handmade sector, learning more about GI tags and how to wield it effectively in his practice. “I am trying to spread awareness among my community and I have also spoken to artisans in places like Bagru [another major block printing centre in Rajasthan that is GI tagged].”

The reality today is that, at the grassroots, very few understand the certification, its purpose and efficacy. Or that, as GI policies stand today, there are many gaps in it — the lack of centralised control for one, or enforcement mechanisms like that of corporate IP, or even international GI protection. A fact that was brought to light when Italian luxury label Prada presented GI-tagged Kolhapuri lookalikes at their runway show in June. Many lawsuits were filed, failing to understand that GI is a domestic law that protects a product’s name and origin, but not its design or style. So, brands can mimic the look (like Prada did) without using the GI-tagged name and not face any penalties.

This is where State governments, entrepreneurs, and NGOs need to step up, not only by addressing the gaps, but also helping people learn how to make the best of it. Especially at a time when the Indian government is also pushing for GI; in January, Union Minister of Commerce & Industry Piyush Goyal announced a target of reaching 10,000 GI tags by 2030.

Despite controversies, Kumar believes that GI tags can still aid craftspeople like him. “We are now working to get a GI tag for dabu,” he says. And he is not the only one seeking GI to protect his community’s craft traditions. Over the last few years, GI tagging has turned into an athletic event with dozens of applications being filed for craft, foodstuff, and other items across States.

India passed The Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act in 1999. And since Darjeeling tea received the first GI tag in 2004-05, over 658 goods have received the tag and several more are in queue.

Scope of the law

Receiving a GI tag may yield news coverage, but controversy often turns on a much brighter spotlight. Rasgulla, for instance, became the subject of dispute between West Bengal and Odisha in 2017, with each State claiming the spongy sweet for its own. Both States received distinct GI tags (based on texture and flavour), though it did not stop debates about who really owns it. India and Pakistan have been in a tug of war over GI for basmati rice in a dispute that is playing out in international courts, even while Madhya Pradesh is petitioning to be recognised as the basmati- producing region in India.

Shwetasree Majumder, managing partner of Fidus Law Chambers in Noida, says that her pet peeve is with people in positions of influence who don’t educate themselves on the scope of the law. “Everyone is content to opine on GI on the basis of their own perception,” she says, noting that misinformation percolates down to the craftspeople and the law ends up being cited for cases where it doesn’t apply. For instance, Prada denied violating GI rights when a legal notice was brought against. “The actual rights holders are not being educated,” Majumder adds. What GI tags help stop is the sale of counterfeit goods or products not made in the specified region. What it does not guarantee is individual protection for artisans or additional benefits.

India presently does not have any major laws for cross-border protection. In comparison, the European Union — where GI-tagged products include French Champagne and Dutch Gouda — ensures protection through bilateral trade agreements even with countries outside the EU. Robust marketing strategies also ensure that their GI tags are well-known internationally. There may be many sparkling wine varieties produced around the world, but none uses the term Champagne.

Why the tag matters

On the bright side, today an ecosystem has emerged across the country to facilitate GI tags. In Tamil Nadu, S. Vincent, member secretary of Tamil Nadu Council for Science and Technology (TANSCST), notes that the State is proactive. “We have instituted 40 IPR [intellectual property rights] cells, which are given the responsibility to identify popular products in their area. Each has to identify a minimum of two,” he says.

The council is also involved in promotions and strategy following the registration. An added benefit: the involvement of academic researchers. After Kollimalai coffee was identified as a potential GI product earlier this year, researchers from K.S. Rangasamy College of Technology helped develop an AI-powered drone to observe diseases and the geology to enhance production. Vincent gives the example of Kodaikanal malai poondu, a local variety of garlic. “[Since it got the tag], the Mother Teresa Women’s University has developed a PCR-based detection kit to verify its genetic authenticity, thus preventing adulteration. Now, there is higher domestic demand, steadiness in pricing, and farmers have started exporting it and selling it online.”

Better market visibility: Uttar Pradesh has the highest number of GIs, at 77, followed by Tamil Nadu, at 69. Across the country, “GI has enhanced market visibility and consumer trust”, says K. Ganesh Moorthy, CEO of Madurai Agri Business Incubation Forum. For instance, in April, Tamil Nadu was accorded certification for six products in April, including the Panruti jackfruit and Ramanadu Chithiraikar rice. “[Since then] Panruti jackfruit has seen increasing attention in the domestic market. Farmers are now being supported to explore value-added products such as jackfruit chips, flour and powder.”

Gains for farmers and artisans: Last year, a study conducted by Symbiosis School of Economics, with the support of NABARD (National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development), revealed that GI registration has led to significant gains for artisans. “In some cases, monthly incomes rose by 20%-75%, sales by up to 70%-75%, and product prices by 50%-70%,” says B.R. Premi, chief general manager of Mumbai-based NABARD. “For example, artisans of Banaras gulabi meenakari [known for its delicate pink enamel work on silver] reported a 20% rise in monthly incomes and nearly 50% higher product prices after GI registration. The tag has also enhanced market access, with many products finding space in international markets.”

Effective implementation

What many do not realise, however, is that submitting a GI application for review is just the first step. Once the tag is granted, local initiatives have to ensure its implementation. “We need a certification body in that geographic area to confirm an atelier or product has followed the process listed in the GI application [how it is created, made, or grown],” explains Ritu Sethi, founder-trustee of Delhi’s Crafts Revival Trust, who has been on expert committees that grant GI certificates. And such initiatives, she says, are a rarity even today.

Pashmina is an example of effective implementation. The Kashmiri craft was one of the earliest to receive a GI tag in 2005. TAHAFUZ, an apex body of artisans from Kashmir’s GI-tagged crafts, took the onus of promoting infrastructural facilities for testing and ensuring that artisans were duly vetted and certified. Crafts and design consultant Renuka Savasere, who was part of the Craft Development Institute, shares that since then the number of GI-authorised artisans has been rising. “Artisans are incentivised to make Pashmina because there’s an economic benefit attached,” she says.

Branding and marketing are key

GI registration is definitely not the end of the journey. The real impact begins with strong post-registration support — both locally and internationally. For example, inside the upscale Novotel Hotel in Hyderabad, Sunday brunch comes with a live demonstration — lac artisans making their GI-tagged bangles. For the past several months, they have been taking diners through the process of handcrafting each piece — spreading awareness. “For the GI tag to have any market impact it has to be marketed as such,” says Subhajit Saha, founder of Resolute4IP, the IP facilitation service that is helping many craft and agriculture communities gain the coveted GI tag. “There has to be marketing, branding. Only then will the product become more desirable.”

Such knowledge is sorely lacking, hobbling artisans and farmers who don’t know how to take advantage of GI. “Limited awareness among producers, high costs of raw materials, and inadequate access to credit hinder the full potential of GI. Insufficient training in business and digital marketing also restricts artisans from capitalising on new opportunities,” agrees Premi of NABARD. He adds, however, that they have recognised the problem and have now started focusing on crucial post-GI activities such as extending marketing support, building consumer awareness, and conducting training programmes for producers and artisans. With the Prada incident highlighting the vulnerability of India’s traditional crafts to global appropriation, he states that the next step should be for stronger international enforcement and better branding. “With the right mix of legal safeguards, promotion, and international partnerships, GI products can become powerful tools for both heritage preservation and global market success,” he concludes.

The writer and editor is based in Delhi.

State of the tag

Most States have multiple GI-tagged products. But it’s a mixed bag when it comes to awareness, marketing, and increased profits.

Telangana

During the big Ambani family wedding, news spread about a ₹2 crore order for customised tarkasi silver filigree work, the 400-year-old GI-tagged craft from Karimnagar, as part of the return gift. You can pick up a Pochampally ikat sari for upwards of ₹6,000 at a store that brands and sells handloom saris. But are people ready to pay for the GI tag’s ‘exclusivity promise’? That is the big question as Telangana snags 27 GI-tagged products, with a dozen more applications in the pipeline.

Latest GI tag: Warangal Chapata Chilli in March 2025

A leaf from the Japanese: “We are following the Japanese model of ‘one village one product’, and using it as ‘one district one product’,” says Sreeha Reddy, Director for Toys Industry, GI, Government of Telangana. “We want to create the ecosystem for identifying, fostering and marketing the GI products of the state. Recently we banned all non-GI products from Shilparamam, a crafts village.” Reddy feels the next wave of GI products will come from the food and agriculture sector, with universities powering the change.

Success story: “It has been 15 years since Hyderabad haleem got the GI tag. It has helped in creating a market opportunity, as there are many similar products with similar sounding names in other parts of the country,” says Mohammed Majeed of Pista House. “People who eat haleem during Ramzan know the uniqueness of the product and it has helped us market it in other parts of the world.”

Tamil Nadu

The State has 69 GI tags. The number went up in April when six products were accorded certification. And most have proved why certification matters. Kovilpatti kadalai mittai (peanut candy), for instance, increased sales from ₹75 lakh in 2018-19 (before GI) to ₹1.1 crore in 2020-21 (after GI), and now it has reached ₹2.05 crore in 2024-25 with branding support.

Latest GI tag: Panruti cashew and jackfruit, Puliyankudi acid lime, Virudhunagar samba vathal, Chettikulam small onion, and Ramanadu chithiraikar rice in April 2025

Success story: “GI has enhanced market visibility and consumer trust. For example, Cumbum paneer grapes and Kanyakumari matti banana have gained recognition through the GI Mahotsav, drawing consumer interest,” says K. Ganesh Moorthy, executive director and CEO of Madurai Agri Business Incubation Forum. “Madurai malli [jasmine] has also gained strong export demand after its GI recognition, and is projected to cross ₹35 crore in 2024-25, with major shipments going to the Middle East, Singapore, and Malaysia.”

Assam

Dhol, jaapi (decorative headgear), boka chaul (a type of rice), and muga silk are among the State’s 41 GI-tagged products. But Khagen Haloi, a farmer from the Nalbari district, says he has no idea what GI tags are. He has a hunch, however, that it is the reason why prices for his aromatic joha rice have gone up from ₹70-₹80 per kg a year ago to ₹140-₹150 per kg this year. Ironically, the steep hike means his business is in trouble. “I have fewer customers for my rice in Guwahati, which is why I now sell my farm-grown vegetables more,” he says.

Latest GI tag: Axomiya gohona, a centuries-old jewellery making craft, in April 2025

Upcoming: Assam’s Bodoland Territorial Region (BTR) is working towards GI tags of cultural artefacts belonging to all 26 communities of the region. They have also announced plans to create ‘GI Villages’ — where artisans and farmers will be supported with training, infrastructure and direct market linkages to create a self-sustaining ecosystem.

Meghalaya

The State has just six GI tags, but the government is doubling down on their efforts. Meanwhile, to support the ones they have, the government is organising expos beyond its borders to promote products such as Lakadong turmeric, Khasi mandarin, and Larnai pottery.

Latest GI tag: Ryndia silk and Khasi handloom in early 2025

Upcoming: “Apart from legal protection, the purpose of GI-tagging is empowering local communities and preserving cultural heritage,” says Chief Minister Conrad K. Sangma. One of the steps being undertaken is promoting wine making to add value to products such as the Kew pineapple.

Andhra Pradesh

It has around 17 GI tags — including Banaganapalle mango, Etikoppaka toys, Pedana kalamkari — but IP professional Subhajit Saha believes the State has over 70 products that have the potential for certification. However, he believes interest and knowledge needs to be built. “50% of artisans do not know what the certification means for them,” he says. “Also, while the tag increases an artisan’s income, it is not enough for a product to sell. Price, quality, and appearance are equally important. One has to know how to package it.”

Latest GI tag: Narasapur crochet lace craft in 2024

Upcoming: The government is helping with design interventions to increase the market value of GI-tagged products. “In the case of Kondapalli toys, we are training artisans to make key chains, jewellery and everyday products that can replace plastic,” says Lajwanti Naidu, assistant director (capacity building), A.P. Tourism Authority. “We are also training artisans in digital marketing and connecting them with companies.” To improve visibility, they are also planning an experience centre to help tourists visiting GI-tagged villages understand the history of the craft or product.

Uttar Pradesh

Prem Chandra, a Bhadohi carpet artisan, is not too clear about GI tags, but he admits that “in the last 10 years his business has expanded”. In fact, sales of the carpets, which bagged the GI tag in 2010, has grown 10 times, especially exports. Today, even with the highest number of GI tags, the state isn’t sitting on its laurels. A government spokesperson shared that authorities are working on a comprehensive action plan to secure GI tags for 75 more products in 2025-26.

Latest GI tag: Banarasi shehnai and Banaras Bharwan Mirch in April 2025

Upcoming: To raise awareness and expand the base of GI products, the MSME department is onboarding entrepreneurs — certified to produce and market authentic goods — as authorised users. This aims to increase market recognition and protect against imitation.

Kerala

Before the famous Marayur jaggery got its GI tag in 2019, its makers had to sell it for just ₹40 per kg to wholesale dealers, who dictated the price. “Now, people come from far and wide to buy it directly from us,” says P.N. Vijayan, a sugarcane farmer and producer of the jaggery. “This Onam, I sold it for as much as ₹110 a kilo.” Till date, Kerala has 36 GI tagged products.

Latest GI tag: Kannadippaya (a tribal handicraft from Idukki with a reflective weave) in April 2024

Pro move: The State government has a dedicated website, gikerala.in, that offers access to all GI-tagged products from the state. They also provide legal support to protect producers from counterfeit goods, while extending working capital assistance to promote value-added products. In Idukki, the Kerala Forest Research Institute has launched a comprehensive revival mission to breathe new life into Kannadippaya weaving. The initiative spans the entire value chain — from cultivating bamboo to sourcing the harvested material, and training a new generation of weavers.

With inputs from Serish Nanisetti, Sangeetha Kandavel, Rahul Karmakar, Sravani Nellore, Mayank Kumar, and Mini Muringatheri